After a delightful break from all mini related activity, which involved several days in the woods with my family, I’m back at this kobold (whom everyone calls a leprechaun) and starting to think about wrapping up the painting.
Here is where he stands now, needing gold NMM buttons, buckles, and bits and the inevitable tidying up before I move on to basing him.
After a good string of busts over the last few weeks, I got the urge to paint a full figure mini again. I dug this kobold from Blacksmith Miniatures out of the box and felt he’d do nicely. This is one of the models from the J.B. Monge line they did, which I kickstarted a few years back.
He’s 54mm, but short because, you know, he’s a kobold. Still, he’s got an enormous dome, so that is nice to work on.
I just finished up a wonderful bust from Artik Toys, sculpted by Patrick Masson. It’s a vampire based upon a painting by the great Paul Bonner. You can read some of Bonner’s thoughts on the composition of the painting (and, you know, see it) in an article he wrote for Muddy Colors.
I finished this incredibly expressive sculpt in two days, but produced one of my favorite, best, and best received pieces to date. I’ll tell you why he’s important to me.
I started an account on Putty & Paint back in January, filled with excitement, ambition, and a healthy dose of fear. The standards on the site are incredibly high, and I had no established identity in the mini painting hobby to fill my sails right off the bat.
I got some nice feedback (thanks!) on the base of my recently completed Maulg figure and a request to explain how I put it together. I happened to take some pictures along the way (for some reason I was giving a friend an unsolicited play-by-play), so I’m able to offer a pretty detailed tutorial on various aspects of the construction & finishing. I’m also happy to share some of my principles, planning, and intention when doing bases and vignettes.
Our man BaM is back with another great tutorial. He paints minis all day every day, and he has refined his techniques over many years. One thing he’s mastered for sure is gritty true metallic metals. This time he’s walking us through the creation of a TMM suit of darkened steel armor on a chaos warrior.
Our good friend John Margiotta, aka BloodASMedium, is back with another tutorial covering one of his specialties. This time he’s opening the hood on his heavily rusted iron/steel. I love the physical texture he achieves with this additive approach.
These beauties – er, uglies – form the Clan of the Bleeding Eye. John is always cranking out amazing units, and these spire tyrants turned to the worship of Nurgle look like they’ll prove no exception.
Ok, here’s how to produce an ultra-heavy rust effect suitable whenever you want maximum corrosion.
I’m going to try to buckle down and finish off this little bust from Lukáš Žaba. I started him a while ago but sort of lost steam. I think I succumbed to the paralysis that visits us when we fixate on how good, and how much better, every detail ought to be. I think I’m ready to just dive in, do my best, and move on the the next thing. If I have fun painting and learn a thing or two (which I already have), then he’ll be a success.
And since I’ve got nothing else to do, I’ve also got another 40k Kill Team project started!
Our pal g0rb is back with a smashing tutorial on the scratchbuilding and weathering of a space hulk-themed display platform for your miniatures. Chris is an ultra-creative and unorthodox hobbyist who always has something new to show us.
In this article I am going to show you the steps I took in scratchbuilding a weathered spaceship corridor interior. I used this kind of technique for the space ship corridor in my Space Hulk diorama.
Instead of a diorama base, I will be building a display platform. This platform can be used as a photography backdrop or to display finished models on. The steps used in construction and weathering can of course be applied to anything else that needs weathering.