I got some nice feedback (thanks!) on the base of my recently completed Maulg figure and a request to explain how I put it together. I happened to take some pictures along the way (for some reason I was giving a friend an unsolicited play-by-play), so I’m able to offer a pretty detailed tutorial on various aspects of the construction & finishing. I’m also happy to share some of my principles, planning, and intention when doing bases and vignettes.
Our man BaM is back with another great tutorial. He paints minis all day every day, and he has refined his techniques over many years. One thing he’s mastered for sure is gritty true metallic metals. This time he’s walking us through the creation of a TMM suit of darkened steel armor on a chaos warrior.
Our good friend John Margiotta, aka BloodASMedium, is back with another tutorial covering one of his specialties. This time he’s opening the hood on his heavily rusted iron/steel. I love the physical texture he achieves with this additive approach.
These beauties – er, uglies – form the Clan of the Bleeding Eye. John is always cranking out amazing units, and these spire tyrants turned to the worship of Nurgle look like they’ll prove no exception.
Ok, here’s how to produce an ultra-heavy rust effect suitable whenever you want maximum corrosion.
Our pal g0rb is back with a smashing tutorial on the scratchbuilding and weathering of a space hulk-themed display platform for your miniatures. Chris is an ultra-creative and unorthodox hobbyist who always has something new to show us.
In this article I am going to show you the steps I took in scratchbuilding a weathered spaceship corridor interior. I used this kind of technique for the space ship corridor in my Space Hulk diorama.
Instead of a diorama base, I will be building a display platform. This platform can be used as a photography backdrop or to display finished models on. The steps used in construction and weathering can of course be applied to anything else that needs weathering.
ToadChapel’s good friend Lee Hebblethwaite, aka 10Ball, returnswith another tutorial that will give you a glimpse into how he achieved a stunning, unearthly effect on the skin of his recent Shaetann bust. Trust me, you don’t want to miss this one!
I’ve had quite a response to my latest project, Shaetann (by Raul Garcia Latorre), which is lovely to hear, and it’s always a bonus when people ask how I’ve gone about certain aspects of a miniature. So in response to a number of requests about the bust’s unusual skintones here’s a small write up on my approach and my thoughts about painting it.
Read on for a breakdown of how you can pull off this incredible effect.
ToadChapel’s friend and regular contributer Lee Hebblethwaite returns to introduce another fun and effective technique to spice up your mini painting. Though 10Ball is better known for his outstanding NMM, he also knows a thing or two about gorgeous true metallic metals. Read on to learn how Lee makes use of liquid mask to lend character to his corrosion!
Spend any time around ToadChapel and you know I’m plum crazy about the fungus. I like the way mushrooms look and I like learning about them, so I photograph them, I draw them, and I use them extensively in my miniature projects. I’ve developed techniques for creating a variety of mushroom shapes suitable for 28mm, 54mm, or larger scale mini scenes, and I’m happy to share my approach with you. Depending upon how you paint these, you could produce many actual mushroom species and an unlimited number of fictional fungi.
These mushrooms are sturdy and small enough to use on gaming bases, especially if you place them intelligently, but they’re delicate enough to add a lot of dazzling detail to display pieces. Read on to learn how to work some minuscule mushrooms into your next modeling project.
Today ToadChapel is proud to present a tutorial from the amazing Andy Gillaspy, aka AndyG. Andy is a true master of NMM style painting, but he’s always pushing himself in new directions. In that spirit, Andy has developed a way to render heavy rust in a non-metallic setting. Read on to learn how to add this technique to your bag of tricks. Thanks Andy!
I adore non-metallic metals. It’s my favourite way of painting metals. The control on where the highlighting goes, the matte finish which stops unwanted glints from metallic paints so that the mini appears to the observer the way that you want it to rather than how the lighting in the room reflects offs metallic paints is for me worth the effort. This isn’t to say that TMM is not an exacting and difficult way of painting metals well; for example the work of SkellettetS and Megazord Man is superb and they use TMM most of the time.
That said, NMM for me. However, what to do with rust? There I have previously given in and used TMM rather than NMM and I have been very satisfied with the results; the slight application in rubbed spots of the metal concentrates the highlights where you want them anyway so the issues of glints appearing where you don’t want them doesn’t occur as the rest of the metal is oxidized with matte browns and oranges. It was quite a challenge to come out of my comfort zone and decide to see if I could paint realistic and aesthetically pleasing rusted armour with NMM. Continue reading “AndyG’s NMM Rust Technique”
Once again ToadChapel welcomes the über-creative Lee Hebblethwaite, aka 10Ball. In this tutorial 10Ball walks us through a process he uses to create expressive scenic trees that enhance the composition of his miniature bases. As you can see from the image below, the results can be spectacular. The method itself, though, could even be applied to gaming terrain. Thanks 10!
There are many ways to create miniature trees. Using real tree roots or sculpting from scratch can be very effective, but I find using a wire ‘skeleton’ frame can create a realistic form quicker than sculpting and offers more control to fit the look of the scene than trying to find the correct piece of tree root. Continue reading “Scratchbuilding a Miniature Wire Tree”
The great David Powell , aka Bailey03, joins us for this guest tutorial, explaining how to better paint highlights and surface reflections. Though David is a sublime figure painter, he’s also a remarkable teacher who always translates his ideas into practical advice. Read on for David’s tips that will immediately improve your mini painting. Oh, and to see some of his incredible work, too!